map 1:
map 2:
Costa Rica
Christmas 2004/New Year 2005
'Jungle and
Volcanoes' Exodus cycling holiday (Guide: Kevin Hill of Bi. Costa Rica S.A.)
Day
1: London to Costa Rica, San Jose
Wednesday 22nd December
Day
2 Atenas to Puntaranas
Thursday 23rd December
Met
the group at breakfast - the hotel has a great view of the plateau
below - we'd seen the lights driving up as the taxi struggled up the
hill at 2am last night. Sorted out the bikes - ours are fine
except
for tyres a bit bald. The ride was 40 km with an A team and a B
team -
I felt my training ambitions (TransRockies 2005) required me to opt for
the A team. Blisteringly hot - it was a relief to wade through a
river
and I felt my temperature rising and rising. Saw live fences -
planted
trees instead of fences. Named after tourists since they go red
and
peel. Turkey necked vultures circling over a fresh batch of
Exodus
riders. Two guides Randall and Paul with driver Carlos and
main guide
an American, Kevin Hill. The group are Brits except for two
Americans,
two living in Toronto and Peter from Belfast. Ros and Jane are
riding
new black Specialised full suspension bikes and are amazing riders and
Jane also speaks fluent Spanish. Some of the men are more mortal
-
walking down some technical sections and up some hills. I was
really
struggling towards the end - mainly because of the heat. Paul
came and
helped me - pushing my bike up the hill whilst I walked. Luckily
I
wasn't alone - with Justin the racing car driver also struggling.
Just
when I thought I might not be able to go any further - we were at
the
lunch stop when I could pour cold water over my head. Then drove
to
the hotel in two vehicles. I was with the Costa Rican boys so
tried to
practice some Spanish. At the hotel overlooking the Pacific-
cooled
down in the pool and drank a cold beer..
photo: En route from Atenas to Puntarenas via the Rio Tarcoles
Valley.
photo: Living fence heading
into the Rio Tarcoles Valley.
photo: Little Soda (cafe) beside the old railway, Rio Tarcoles
Valley.
photo: A good suspension bridge crossing Rio Tarcoles
.
photo: Rubble strewn descent, Rio Tarcoles Valley.
photo: Andy crossing a not-so- good suspension bridge crossing
Rio Tarcoles
photo: Justin avoids the hole, suspension bridge, crossing Rio
Tarcoles
photo: Carrie and Peter ford Rio Turrubares.
Day 3 Puntarenas to San Mateo, then Athenas
Friday 24th December
Today's ride started off along the sea front - down the unusual finger
of land surrounded by mangrove swamps. Saw a pelican, a frigate
bird and more vultures. Hot again but felt much better - helped
by magic red powder in the drinking water and lots of snacks stops
along route. Lunch in a shady forest, most of us opting to do a
few hours single track riding. Technical but mostly ridable for
me. We stopped at a waterfall - time for a fully clothed swim, no
problem in this heat and it felt great. Back to the hotel in
Athenas. Really enjoying talking to everyone in the group - very
interesting people such as Ros - a professional musician. Huge
Christmas Eve dinner.
photo: Route briefing outside Hotel Tioga, Puntarenas.
photo: Hotel Tioga, Puntarenas.
photo: Jane, Lisa, Carrie and Ros, leaving Puntarenas.
photo: Black Vultures
photo: Puntaranas Mangroves,
Mata de Limon.
photo: Randall conquering
a technical section.
photo: Mark & Randall take
on Carlos and Gary at table football

photo: Stopping for a swim in the Single Track at Mahogany Park
photo: Mark & Randall,
Mahogany Park
photo: Ros & Carrie,
Mahogany Park
Day 4 Athenas through the Tarcoles Valley (Ruta de los
Conquistadores), Turrucares to La Garita
Saturday 25th December
Last look at the wonderful view. 8 of us to go on the harder
route. Actually only 4 hours cycling time but very hot and very
steep hills that only Gary could ride up. The countryside looks
very like Cuba from the houses with music blaring out. Hard to
get going after a lunch of rice and beans and chicken (cassada).
There aren't many bits of me that aren't bitten - my own fault for not
wearing insect repellent. It didn't seem necessary when no-one
else was getting bitten. Today I got stung by something riding
down the steep hill from the hotel. Arrived at a chalet style
hotel and cooled down in the pool. Went out for a meal without
the guides - Jane as interpreter - had a delicious steak and Chilean
red wine.
photo:
Morning vista before breakfast, Vista Atenas, Atenas.
photo: Usual morning briefing,
Vista Atenas, Atenas.
photo: Andy crossing another
'interesting' bridge in the Tarcoles Valley.
photo: Gary and Paul make one
of the climbs on the Ruta de los
Conquistadores
photo: Carrie cools down after
one of the many climbs, Tarcoles Valley.
photo: Ros - the only person to
clean her bike, La Rosa de America, La Garita.
photo: Christmas Day evening
meal at Delicias del Maiz, La Garita.
Day 5: La Garita (shuttle through San Jose and Cartago)
Lourdes, Orosi Valley, Orosi, Kiri Lodge (Tapanti N Park)
Sunday 26th December
Leisurely start to the day, with a two hour drive stopping off to watch
the Tour of Costa Rica race. Up hill cycle for a mile got us
warmed up and then a long down hill to lunch. Usual cassada and
great fruit juices made it a struggle to get on the bikes for a final 7
miles to a hotel deep in the rain forest. My goal to stay ahead
of Jane - just managed it but it didn't count because her chain came
off just before the end. Pouring rain, but still able to see
glimpses of amazing birds. Once the rain had stopped me, Gary,
Peter, Andy, John and Ditsie set off on a hike before supper. It
was much harder than the leaflet led us to expect and John and Ditsie
turned back. We carried on with the promise of a bat cave at the
end point of the walk. It was steep, muddy, slippery and
overgrown. We started to worry about the disappearing light and
how long it would take us to get back, especially since an early part
of the path had a steep drop on either side. We increased our
pace - reluctant to turn back without seeing those bats. The walk
was numbered so we knew we had reached the end. But could we see
any bat cave - well the secret is out - not a sign. Not that we
lingered long as conscious of the lack of daylight - we rushed to
retrace our steps and made it with minutes of light remaining.
Feeling exhausted, with muddy and wet clothes. So much for the
relaxing pre dinner stroll I had promised Gary.
photo: Tour of Costa Rica
race goes by (Outskirts of San Jose).
photo: Mark takes it easy on
the wobbly tree crossing!

photo: Andy, Carrie and
Justin take a break in the Orosi Valley. Coffee plantation in the
background.

photo: Lunch stop with casados lunch and fruit juices, Orosi.
photo: Orosi.
photo: Green parrot, Kiri
Lodge.
photo: Kiri Lodge. Our
relaxing walk was up the hill behind!
Day 6: Kiri
Lodge
(Tapanti N Park) to Turrialba
Monday
27th December
Bird watching over breakfast - scarlet rumped tanager, a honey creeper
and a northern oriole. Steep climbing to start the ride today
followed by long down hill section with loose rock. I came down
it slowly. I fell off on a slippery up hill bit, unable to get my
feet out of the pedals in time, banging my knee. Saw a beautiful
blue butterfly (neon blue morpho). The hotel is at the top of a
very very steep hill, which took us all by surprise. We thougth
we were there and the hill just kept on going. Lunch at the bar
took forever to arrive. We are staying in a little hut with a
fantastic view from its own balcony. Feels good to know a little
Spanish.
photo: Carrie takes
another stream crossing in her stride.
photo: Carrie (grinding),
Justin (pushing) and Paul (Playing).
photo: Rio Macho en route
to Turialtico.
photo: Room with a view
from the Pochotel, above Turrialba.
Day 7: Turrialba
(Rest Day)
Tuesday
28th December
Pouring rain, pouring rain. Played two games of scrabble with
John and Ditsie. Read. Went into the town of Turrialba,
into three bike shops where Gary bought some bargain bike bits and we
drank some coffee (not had any nice coffee yet). A bit of a flat
day.
photo: Street life in
Turrialba.
photo: Street life in
Turrialba.
photo: Resplendant
Quetzal (the one on the right), Turrialba.
Day 8 Turrialba to Parismena, Tortuguero National Park
Wednesday 29th December
17 miles today with lots of ups and downs on smooth tarmac at the usual
furious pace. I hit 36mph as the road was so smooth and
sweeping. Walked down to the water for the rafting trip.
Gary and I were with an American guide called Caleb. Gary, Andy
and I were the only ones to stay in the boat. Grade 4 rapids were
terrifying especially when the other boat completely capsized.
Justin and Ros were under for some time and were quite shaken, but all
ok. Lunch on the riverside. Saw kingfisher, blue heron,
toucan, osprey, king heron, egret. A beer and a change of clothes
then onto a bus to take us to the coast, where we boarded a small motor
boat. I spotted a green iguana in a tree, so we stopped for a
closer look. Tonight went to see the Caribbean sea and had a
couple of beers before supper. We ate in about 5 minutes -
delicious spagetti, salad and garlic bread. An early night with
the sound of frogs, insects and torrential rain. Another great
day.
photo: Morning view from
the Pochotel, above Turrialba
photo: 'Put in' for the
Rio Pacuare white water knuckle
rafting trip.
photo: Lunch stop on the
banks of the Rio Pacuare. Plenty to talk about.
photo: Bike waiting by
the side of Rio Pacuare.
photo: Well it just
looked good!
photo: Bananas everywhere!
photo: Views from boat
near Barra Parismina.
photo: Boat trip into
Barra Parismina.
Day 9 Parismina, Tortuguero National Park.
Thursday 30th December
Boat tour with a guide to the national park. Saw a crocodile with
its mouth open and then leisurely crawl into the water, a sloth
climbing slowly with its long claws. Also a poison dart frog and
turtle. Free afternoon, walked on the beach, had a beer and then
scrabble before supper. Pete, Ros (Shiny Wheels), Jane, Justin
and Andy stayed in the bar and got drunk. A night boat trip after
supper with a torch picking up eyes in the undergrowth. Our guide
stopped the boat and got out in his bare feet. He called for help
from the driver and the two of them returned carrying a cayman (small
crocodile) into the boat to show us.
photo: Views from boat
near Barra Parismina.
photo: Iguana (spotted by
Carrie) Barra Parismina.
photo: Poison dart frog,
Barra Parismina.
photo: Bats, Barra
Parismina.
photo: Views from boat
near Barra Parismina.
photo: Views from boat
near Barra Parismina.
photo: Crocodile, Barra
Parismina.
photo: Crocodile, Barra
Parismina.
photo: Views from boat
near Barra Parismina.
photo: Sloth, Barra
Parismina.
photo: Typical house,
Barra Parismina.
photo: Girls, Barra
Parismina.
photo: Typical house,
Barra Parismina.
photo: Caribbean Ocean,
Barra Parismina.
photo: Gary, Caribbean
Ocean, Barra Parismina.
photo: John & Ditsie,
Caribbean Ocean, Barra Parismina.
photo: Justin, Ros, Jane,
Peter and Andy rehydrating.
photo: Cayman - I thought
they were supposed to be small.
photo: Cayman, Barra Parismina.
photo: Cayman - Steady
boy!
Day 10 Parismena to Cahuita
Friday 31st December
We ate rice and beans three times today. Started this morning
with a motor boat journey, still time to spot a crocodile on the bank
and some howler monkeys high in a tree. Relaxing to zip along
letting my thoughts wander. Lunch of spicy rice and beans with
fish in a beach front cafe served by an Afro Carribean man. Swam
in the sea and the waves were so strong they took my breath away.
We cycled along the coast through Lymon for 34 miles. Very busy
roads. Tried to stay in a peleton formation - nearly killed me to
keep up. Gary pushed me to help. I managed one section then
right at the end the leaders speeded up. Jane made a fantastic
effort saying we could catch them. I tried to follow her and was
gasping for breath and couldn't keep it up. It was fun. The
hotel is another chalet style place set in wonderful grounds with birds
and black and green dart frogs. Swam in the pool and relaxed to
the sound of grasshoppers. Buffet meal at the hotel with a truly
dreadful live band (a real difference from Cuba). Kevin found a
gaudy leaf frog to show us and it leapt onto Jane's face. Into
town for some more drinks and a bit of a dance - home for midnight.
photo: That looks like a
Sloth, North of Limon
.
photo: Sloth, North of
Limon
photo: Sloth, North of
Limon
photo: Black vultures,
North of Limon
photo: Navigating busy
Limon
photo: Tree frog takes a shine
to Jane, Cahuita
photo: Frog, Cahuita
photo: Lobster Claw flower,
Cahuita
photo: Bush in flower, Cahuita
Day 11 Cahuita to Puerto Viego
Saturday 1st January
Feliz Ano!
Relaxed in the hotel garden, sitting outside our room. Spotted a
toucan in the tree and a squirrel cuckoo. Cycled through the town
of Cahuita, then into the coastal national park. Enjoyed cycling
over roots, beating the waves across the beach, but drew the line at
log hopping. Saw white faced monkeys and a sloth.
Cycled back along the road - again trying to keep up with the peleton -
great fun. This place is the most touristy yet with lots of
cafes, bars and stalls selling trinkets. Black rastas - marking
the great change from the Pacific to the Carribean coasts. Gary
and I have a lovely chalet style room just off the beach. Went
for a walk to watch the sunset, paddle in the warm water and watch the
crashing waves, surfers far out to sea catching frightening looking
waves. Celebratory cold beer out of our own fridge. Great
feeling.
photo: Gary's trusty Haro
Escape, Cahuita
photo: Paul along the single
track through Cahuita National Park en route to Puerto Viejo.
photo: Andy, Carlos, Justin,
Paul, Carrie, Jane, Mark, Ros, Peter, Gary, Lisa, Jim, Ditsie, John,
Cahuita National Park.
photo: Randall, Paul and
Carlos, Cahuita National Park.
photo: Monkeys. No, up in the
trees, Cahuita National Park.
photo: White faced monkeys,
Cahuita National Park.
photo: A few obstacles, Cahuita
National Park.
photo: Carrie, Cahuita National
Park.
photo: Gary trying to control
the frisky 'Haro', Cahuita National Park.
photo: A bit of pumping
required to clean the salty bikes, Cahuita National Park.
photo: A bit more pumping
required to clean the salty bikes, Cahuita National Park.
photo: Stop press: Women in
shower with bike shocker! Ros cleaning her bike, again. Cahuita
National Park.
photo: A large beetle, Puerto Viejo.
photo: Sunset from our
accommodation on Playa Coches, Puerto Viejo.
Day 12 Puerto Viego (Rest day)
Sunday 2nd January
Last day of cycling - but only Peter and Andy joined us for our own
ride down the coast to Manzanillo. We started off along a beach
path in the forest, with a plank bridges across streams. Gary
went across, Peter needed a second run at it. Just as he was
lining himself up for it, he couldn't get his feet out of the peddles
and toppled over. But not a man to be deterred - he still managed
to cross the plank. The path ran out and we continued on the road
to Manzaniillo for an orange juice in a decrepid looking cafe,
advertising ice creams but none on sale. Continued along the
beach crossing a deep estuary and into the forest beyond the path
quickly turning to mud. We stopped at a point with a view of
choppy seas and pelicans on a rock. Returning through the estuary
Peter made a valiant attempt to cycle across - nearly losing his bike
out to sea. This afternoon did a canopy tour with Jane and
Ros. Not very thrilling but good company and views of the
jungle. Most interesting was a walking tree which moves in search
of light and some huge ants. Fun to be so high above the ground
and then sliding down to the next platform. Couple of beers from
the fridge before supper - this involved a bus ride to Manzanillo
to a fish restaurant above this mornings cafe. This was our last
night together and Peter announced his awards for the trip:
Gary - superman, Me - grinder, Ros - best techy, Jane - snatcher, Mark
- golden bib and best fall, Randall - bonk , Carlos - butterfly, Jim
and Lisa - best couple, John - David Attenborough, Ditsie - sloth/cute
bum, Newcomer - Justin, Kevin - one of only 2 in Costa Rica. Andy
- all round athlete. Made us all laugh alot. Pouring rain
as we left and seemed to rain all night.
photo: Manzanillo.
photo: Gary, Carrie, Peter and
Andrew, Manzanillo.
photo: Peter asking directions,
Manzanillo.
photo: I'm not sure why Carrie
is carrying the bike - it's a hire bike! Manzanillo.
photo: Caribbean culture, Puerto Viejo.
photo: Carrie on the canopy
tour, Puerto Viejo.
Day 13: Puerto Viego to San Jose
Monday 3rd January
Four hour journey back to San Jose. Stopped in a supermarket to
buy coffee etc.. Pouring rain suits our mood of the impending end of
the holiday. Hotel Carlos - nice comfortable hotel. Off to
the bike shop and Justin and Peter decide to buy a Santa Cruz Blur for
about half the UK price. Jane bought a heart rate monitor, Gary
tried hard but couldn't find anything to buy. Out for dinner -
the best restaurant yet - parmesan and olive bread has never tasted so
good, for being an unfamiliar taste. Drinks afterwards to say
farewell to John, Ditsie, Jim and Lisa.
photo: Comfortable chair!
Day 14: San Jose
Tuesday 4th January
Leisurely breakfast on the outdoor terrace but the weather turned cold
and wet. Ros joined us for our own city tour. At the
National Theatre - joined an Italian tour group as they walked into the
theatre. Beautiful horseshoe shaped theatre with a sense of
colonial grandeur. Delicious coffee at last in the theatre
cafe. Gold museum with pre-Colombian artefacts and walked to the
indoor market, felt a bit unsafe with lots of people around on the
streets. After lunch went to the Jade museum for more artefacts
and Gary went back to the bike shop where he managed to find some
bargains. Farewell drink with Ros, Jane and Andy. Final
meal at a Carribean restaurant.
photo: Street scene, San Jose.
Day 15: San Jose (Scenic Flight) and Flight home to London
Wednesday 5th January
Mark, Justin, Peter, Gary and myself hired a small plane for $182
each. Beautiful sunny day - such a relief after yesterday's
weather. A thrill to be in a small plane, feeling the turbulence.
Saw a couple of volanoes and over to Puntaranas with its unusual finger
of land. Picked out our hotel and the start of the next day's
cycle ride. Taxi to the airport and the long journey home begins.
photo: Our plane for a few
hours.
photo: Justin and Carrie.
photo: Mark - co-pilot
for the flight.
photo: Gary & Peter.
photo: Small housing estate
above the airfield, San Jose.
photo: Volcano Barva
(2906m), North of San Jose.
photo: Volcano Poas
(2704m), North-West of San
Jose.
photo: Volcano Poas
(2704m), North-West of San
Jose.
photo: View - North-West of San Jose.
photo: Volcano Arenal
(1633m), North-West of San
Jose.
photo: Puntarenas,
our Hotel Tioga (the yellow building front right).
photo: Caldera and Mata
de Limon, Puntarenas (crossed the bridge on day 2).
photo: The local beer.
Altitude & Distance Plots (Polar 720i Heart Rate Monitor)
Day 2 Atenas to Puntaranas
Thursday 23rd December
Day 3 Puntaranas to San Mateo, then Athenas
Friday 24th December
Day 4 Athenas through the Tarcoles Valley (Ruta de los
Conquistadores), Turrucares to La Garita
Saturday 25th December
Day 5: La Garita (shuttle through San Jose and Cartago)
Lourdes, Orosi Valley, Orosi, Kiri Lodge (Tapanti N Park)
Sunday 26th December
Day 6: Kiri Lodge
(Tapanti N Park) to Turrialba
Monday 27th December
Day 8 Turrialba to Parismena, Tortuguero National Park
Wednesday 29th December
Day 10 Parismena to Cahuita
Friday 31st December
Day 11 Cahuita to Puerto Viego
Saturday 1st January
Day 12 Puerto Viego (Rest day)
Sunday 2nd January
|