photo 1: Holguin to Bayamo.

photo 2: Holguin to Bayamo.

photo 3: Bayamo Main Square (Outside Hotel Royalton).

photo 4: Bayamo Main Square (Outside Hotel
Royalton).

photo 5: Bayamo Main Square (Outside Hotel
Royalton).
Day 4: Bayamo to El Santon (68km) -map
Tuesday 23 December, day 1 of the 149km 2 day 'El Santon Challenge'
route from Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba (
Lonely Planet
p264)
70km I woke feeling a bit sick - especially when I remembered last
night's
meal. Not good when today was the hardest day of cycling.
We
set off and the sun was soon beating down onto our faces. This
ride
was hard because we had lots of up hill and the road surface
deteriorated,
as we got higher into the mountains. I was so relieved to get to El
Santon.
However felt terrible and basically slept all evening with a
short
break for supper. A bit of heat stroke I think. The ride
itself
wasn't too bad - but the heat made it really hard. Saw a
huge
dead pig being driven round in the back of a lorry. Plus a dead
body
being carried on a stretcher. People everywhere despite being
supposedly
in the middle of nowhere. Schools with children looking very
smart
in uniforms (always the same colours). Saw a special sports
school
with children running races barefoot. The hotel is right at the
end
of the road - like an oasis after our long ride by a waterfall
surrounded
by trees. More poor food - greasy chicken and rice. Even
the
biscuits and sweets we had bought were past their sell by date and not
quite
nice.

photo 6: Bayamo to El Santon.

photo 7: Bayamo to El Santon.

photo 8: El Santon .
Day 5: El Santon to Santiago de Cuba (81km) -map
Wednesday 24 December, day 2 of the 149km 2 day 'El Santon
Challenge' route from Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba (
Lonely Planet
p264)
Hotel Las Americas - $67 per night. Disappointingly the pool is
broken
- but at least the shower works properly unlike the last two hotels.
Now
very sunburnt with heat rash on my legs. But otherwise both
feeling
fine. Everywhere is very tidy - no litter or litter bins.
The
houses although shabby are well kept with neat cactus hedges.
Really
enjoyable riding with ups and downs and beautiful views of wooded
hills.
Met a Swiss couple of cyclists - our first westerner cyclists.
Decided
to stay in this hotel so we could get some help booking the bus for
tomorrow.
Great
long down hill ride into Santiago. The city comes as a shock -
all
the noise and traffic. Hard to imagine cycling at a hotter time
of
year. Looking forward to a nice meal tonight of pizza at the posh
hotel
over the road - Hotel Santiago.

photo 9: Leaving El Santon.

photo 10: El Santon to Santiago de Cuba.

photo 11: Coffee Factory on the way from El Santon to
Santiago de Cuba.

photo 12: One of many Schools - El Santon to Santiago de
Cuba.

photo 13: Rough surface - El Santon to Santiago de Cuba.

photo 14: Queuing outside a dollar shop in Santiago de
Cuba.
Day 6: Santiago de Cuba -map
Thursday 25 December, rest day and Christmas day.
Strange Cuba has a dollar economy and strange to be watching US TV in
the
hotel when they're such enemies. Got our washing done for us for
$10. Walked
into the centre of town after booking our bus tickets through the
hotel.
Seems very busy - not like Christmas day. Coffee at the
main
hotel - Casa Granda - with a brilliant band playing. Enjoyed
looking
at all the buildings and people watching. They seem a little more
smartly
dressed here. Hoped to go to the Art Gallery - but despite being
open
and fully staffed it was closed. Went to the Casa de la Trova to
hear
some more music and had a beer. Listened to a woman with an
amazing
voice sitting on a cool patio with only around ten other people and a
mixture
of Cubans and tourists. Horrible spaghetti and pizza at the Casa
Granda
with very slow service- but great location overlooking the square.

photo 15: Band at the Casa Granda.

photo 16: Band at the Casa Granda.

photo 17: View down to the port - Santiago de Cuba.

photo 18: Casa Granda - Santiago de Cuba.

photo 19: Street scene - Santiago de Cuba.

photo 20: Casa de la Trova - Santiago de Cuba.
Day 7: Santiago de Cuba to Baracoa -map
Friday 26 December, coach (Viazul) to Baracoa (6hrs).
Caught the bus at 7.30am. 3$ booking fee. $37 for the
coach.
Plus
$10 for the bikes - although the hotel had told us it would cost only
$30
in total. Gary loaded the bikes himself and locked them inside.
Strange
to travel by bus in 6 hours the journey it will then take us three days
to
cycle back. The approach to Guantanamo signalled by the sight of
soldiers
standing in a field wearing green leaves as camouflage. In
Baracoa
the first casa was full - but she took us to a friend - Natasha - a
young
woman with husband and small child. The house is very small - so
it
is hard to know where the family sleep - perhaps on the roof. It
is
very simple and clean. She cooked a delicious meal of fish.
The
room cost $20 and dinner and breakfast an additional $17. Walked
up
to the Hotel Castillio overlooking the town for lunch - with a very
tempting
looking pool. Visited the Casa de Trova to hear a band. I
had
a go at dancing much to Gary's amusement.

photo 21: Plaza de la Revolution - Santiago de
Cuba.

photo 22: Casa Particular - Baracoa.

photo 23: Street scene - Baracoa.

photo 24: Street scene - Baracoa.

photo 25: Street scene - Baracoa.
Day 8: Baracoa to Playa Yacabo (77km) -map
Saturday 27 December, day 1 of the 243km 3 day 'La Farola' route
from Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba (
Lonely Planet p249)
80km. Started out after a great breakfast of tortilla, bread and
honey.
Big climb over La Farolla - but in the pouring rain, which kept
us
cool,
although meant less of a view. Met an Exodus tour group from the
UK
and heard about their great hotels. One lad gave us his remaining
energy
bars. We needed these later when we were unable to buy anything
for
lunch. On arrival - hit a difficulty getting booked into the campismo.
The
warden managed to find someone who spoke English to explain to us that
he
didn't want to rent us a room without a sheet or towel. He would
like
us to cycle back to the last village to stay in one of his friend's
houses.
We weren't cycling an extra 20km and so accepted the room without a
sheet
and it resembled a concrete garage. It had a wooden frame bed
with
some
foam for a mattress. Spanish sounding disco music blared out
uncomfortably
loudly - despite there being not many people around - just bored
looking
teenagers. Had a wonderful swim in the sea - crystal clear water.
We
sat and watched the Cuban children playing on the beach. Supper
was
with all the other Cubans - very greasy chicken and rice with some
mysterious
fried leaves. Nothing we could buy to drink and we didn't dare drink
the
yellow cordial presented to us as part of the meal. Back in the
garage
we greedily drank two small cartons of mango juice we had bought in
Baracoa.
Thankfully
the ear-spliting music stopped around 11pm.

photo 26: Start of the La Farola 19km climb.

photo 27: Start of the La Farola Descent, 10km.

photo 28: View from La Farola.

photo 29: Wood being transported by sledge (one of the
metals wheels fell off just after this shot!).

photo 30: Past Cajobabo on the Caribbean Ocean road -
Baracoa to Playa Yacabo.

photo 31: Leaving Imias for Playa Yacabo.

photo 32: Playa Yacabo beach.
Day 9: Playa Yacabo to Guantanamo (76km) -map
Sunday 28 December, day 2 of the 243km 3 day 'La Farola' route
from Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba (
Lonely Planet p249)
87km. The music started up again at 8am. Breakfast of bread and
spam
- more yellow cordial to resist. Fantasising about coffee.
Arrived
at a dollar shop just before opening time to buy water and biscuit
supplies.
An old lady asked us for our plastic bottles once we had emptied
them.
The ride was easy and uneventful following the coast and
then
inland to Guantanamo. The hotel took some finding - outside the
town.
I swam in the cold pool surrounded by teenagers and more
ear-splitting
disco music. Returned for a cold shower. Had supper with an
Australian
couple, working in Canada and their 3 year old son - great
conversation.
The usual food - but good value for 10$.

photo 33: Local transport - Playa Yacabo to Guantanamo.
Day 10: Guantanamo to Santiago de Cuba (89km) -map
Monday 29 December, day 3 of the 243km 3 day 'La Farola' route
from Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba (
Lonely Planet p249)
Long wait for breakfast this morning and then they charged us $13 -
perhaps
making up for the cheap dinner. Long ride but felt easy with lots
of
down hill and great views of the mountains. Tiring time back in
Santiago
trying to find a Casa Particular - but all seemed to be full.
Ended
up back at Los Americas. Taxi into town - lunch at the Casa
Granda
- later followed by mojitas on the roof garden to watch the sun go
down.
Managed to get to the art gallery - Emilio Bacardi Moreau - very
poorly
presented in a dingy gallery but a few good paintings especially by
Martinez
Martos and Victor Manuel Garcia. Treated ourselves to a huge
pizza
at Pizza Nova at Hotel Santiago.

photo 34: Guantanamo to Santiago de Cuba.

photo 35: Parque Cespedes - Santiago de Cuba.

photo 36: View from Casa Granda Balcony - Santiago
de Cuba.
Day 11: Santiago de Cuba (26km) -map
Tuesday 30 December, Santiago de Cuba, Castillo del Morro Circuit (
Lonely Planet p229)
Changed some money at the hotel and tried without success to book the
accommodation
for the rest of our trip. A rest day but we still managed to
cycle
a fair distance to El Castillo del Morro. An interesting ride to
get
there through the port and past the memorial to Frank Pais (a hero of
the
revolution) before exploring the castle we ate a three course lunch
overlooking
the ocean for $30. The fortress was spectacular with great views
out
to sea. Came back to the hotel and relaxed watching an American film on
TV
followed by another pizza - stocking up for the bad food ahead.

photo 37: Frank Pais Monument, but which one is the statue?

photo 38: View from the Castillo del Morro ramparts.

photo 39: Castillo del Morro.
Day 12: Santiago de Cuba to Tabacal (70km) -map
Wednesday 31 December, day 1 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra' route
from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (
Lonely Planet p249)
Enjoyable ride along the coast - with mountain views to our right.
A
shipwreck in the sea - its cannons still visible- sunk by the Americans
in
1898. Able to get a room at a small hotel- Motel Guama in Tabacal
for
$15- with a balcony and wonderful view of the turquoise water.
Able
to get lunch - but unfortunately the same as dinner - chicken,
rice/beans
and friend banana. Relaxed on the balcony for the afternoon
enjoying
the view. They brought our supper up to our room at 6.30pm- we
aren't
sure why. Perhaps a way of making money themselves or perhaps
they
just wanted to close up to enjoy the new year. So we ate it in
the
dark on the balcony on a chest of drawers as the mosquitos started to
bite
our ankles. So by 7pm we had retreated to our squalid room.
We
went down to see if anything was going on in the bar- but it was
deserted
save for the drunk bar man. After a cuba libra we were in bed by
8.30pm-
what a new year's eve!

photo 40: Political hoarding on the outskirts of Santiago
de Cuba.

photo 41: Prow of the Almirante Oquendo, Juan Gonzales
Wreck which sunk in 1898.

photo 42: Santiago de Cuba to Tabacal.

photo 43: Relaxing on the Balcony at Motel Guama, Tabacal
(spot the cyclists tan!).
Day 13: Tabacal to La Mula (45km) - map
Thursday 1 January 2004, day 2 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra'
route from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (
Lonely Planet p249)
A surprisingly good breakfast of savoury fried bananas and normal sweet
bananas
and mugs of yoghurt plus some horrid coffee. Shortest day cycling
yet
- arriving mid morning. The route followed the coast so close to
the
sea the waves wet the road on occasion. Arrived at a campismo and
chatted
to some cyclists from the Czech Republic. Swam in the sea -
although
very rocky. Simple room for $10 within sight and sound of the
waves.
Enjoyed the evening - despite the usual food - chatting to the
cyclists
and also three women from London. The room lost its charm
somewhat
to find a cockroach on the floor and a large geko on the toilet cistern
plus
mosquito's
for Gary to kill one by one during the night.

photo 44: Tabacal to La Mula.

photo 45: Tabacal to La Mula.

photo 46: Campismo La Mula.
Day 14: La Mula to Villa Punta de Piedra (62km) - map
Friday 2 January 2004, day 3 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra'
route from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (
Lonely Planet p249)
Gave up on breakfast when no-one had turned up by 8am. Had to do
the
ride on biscuits and the remaining power bar. Fantastic ride-
with
wonderful views of crashing waves. Stayed at Villa de Piedra -
20$
for the room. Again had an identical lunch and dinner of fried
chicken
and rice/beans. But - with the pleasant addition of a salad. Swam
in
the sea but a bit shallow and weedy. The resort doesn't seem
designed
for people to enjoy the sea - no seats, no views from the restaurant,
no
proper beach. Our room- whilst clean - like a cell with no
windows
at eye level. We have seen lots of sexual tourists along the way.
Middle
aged or old unattractive Western men with young Cuban women.

photo 47: La Mula to Villa Punta de Piedra.
Day 15: Villa Punta de Piedra to Manzanillo (90km) - map
Saturday 3 January 2004, day 4 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra'
route from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (
Lonely Planet p249)
A long hard day's cycle - not much to look at and the wind in our
faces.
However it has been hotter. Met the English girls again at the
hotel
and they gave us bananas and flapjacks - we must look hungry! The
Hotel
Guacanayabo is $22 a night. Unusually friendly staff who speak a
little
English. They told us the buses out of Bayama to Havana are fully
booked.
Enjoyed relaxing on the balcony - the usual full blast disco
music
from the pool beneath us.

photo 48: Villa Punta de Piedra to Manzanillo.

photo 49: Villa Punta de Piedra to Manzanillo.

photo 50: Carrie gets overtaken again! - Villa
Punta de Piedra to Manzanillo.
Day 16: Manzanillo to Bayamo (67km) - map
Sunday 4 January 2004, 1 day short route to Bayamo (
Lonely Planet p262)
Really hard cycling - because of the wind. Also boring - but
sustained
by the flapjack gift. Cycled to the bus station in Bayamo - the
buses
are indeed all full - until 8 Jan. Tried the airport - but no
flights
until Tuesday. Tried to hitch a lift to Holguin but worried we
would
get dropped off in the middle of nowhere with no time to get to the
airport
before dark. Decided to wait at the bus station in case of
cancellation.
However met up with a German couple of cyclists in the same
position.
They spoke Spanish and negotiated a car to drive us and our bikes
to
Havana for $300. The drivers took us to a Casa - where we could
have
a shower and have a meal, plus some beers and some dark rum. The
cars
arrived - clapped out ladas. They disappeared to find roof racks.
Finally
left Bayamo at 10.30pm wondering if we would ever get there.

photo 51: Villa Punta de Piedra to Manzanillo.
Day 17: Bayamo to Havana - map
Monday
5 January, Bayamo to Havana by Taxi in 14 hours for $75 each!
They told us the journey would take 7 hours - it took around 15 hours
with
lots of stops for the engines to cool down and the police stopping them
(fining
them for transporting tourists illegally). The drivers shouted to
each
other between cars, smoking cigars and fiddled with the engine whilst
driving
along. Another motorist wanted to know the time - only Gary
seemed
to have a watch. The road was quiet - lined with people trying to
hitch
holding money out in the hope of a lift. They dropped us 17km
outside
the city and we cycled in to find somewhere to stay. Managed to
find
a casa for $30 plus $3 each for breakfast after looking at a few that
just
seemed too seedy. We stayed with two elderly sisters - their
niece
doing the cooking and thankfully speaking English. Our room has
windows
on three sides. Havana feels like a different world. The
streets
are so noisy from early in the morning - people just going about their
business.
I guess it is because everyone is on top of one another. A choice
of
restaurants - selected a Lebanese restaurant with the Germans and
shared
a bottle of Spanish wine.

photo 52: Repairs to one of the Taxi's before we set off!

photo 53: Yet another stop for minor repairs!

photo 54: 14 hours later we cycle into Havana from 18 km
out.
Day 18: Havana (18km) - map
Tuesday 6 January, the 'Havana Circuit' ride (
Lonely Planet p104)
Wonderful to have fruit for breakfast and reasonable coffee.
Enjoyed
conversation with a Swiss couple also at the Casa. Enjoyed
exploring
Havana by bike - along the sea front. Called in at the airline
office
to ask about bike boxes. They directed us to an office outside
town.
Lunch at the wonderful National Hotel overlooking the ocean- where film
stars
usually stay when in Havana. The airline office was typically
unhelpful
- we must box our bikes but they can't help us with any cardboard.
Continued
our bike tour - to admire the Che metal sculpture in the Place de la
Revolution.
Marta at the Casa says she will try and find us some cardboard.
Expensive
dinner sitting outside with a resident salsa band - but no credit cards
accepted.
Enjoyable fish - but spoilt by tinned vegetables. This
place
feels so different from rest of Cuba - much more geared for tourism.
However we still overheard an English couple complaining about the food
and
wine - we thought they can't have experienced outside Havana.
Enjoyed
walking through the streets of old Havana to get back to our
Casa.

photo 55: View across to Castillo de Tres Sntos Reyes del
Morro.

photo 56: Fisherman (spot the bike) along the Malecon.

photo 57: Flag and view along
the Malecon from the Hotel
Nacional.

photo 58: Che metal sculpture in the Place de la
Revolution.

photo 59: Bicitaxi's wait at the start of Av Simon
Bolivar, Sagrado Corazon Church in the background.
Day 19: Vinales - map
Wednesday 7 January, day trip to Vinales and Pinar del Rio.
Took an organised coach trip here for $48 each - picking us up from a
nearby
hotel. Chatted to the other members of the tour group.
Inspired
by a British woman who spoke good Spanish to do an intensive Spanish
course
in Seville or Grenada. Great view of Vinales and visiting a
tobacco
factory were highlights of the day. Also visited some caves and
the
usual lunch with a bored looking salsa band playing the usual tunes.
Came
back to Havana via the Embassy houses in Miramar. Dropped off at
the
National Hotel for dinner and concert for $40. A great treat to
see
the last remaining member of the Buenevista Social Club and another old
man
with white hair and the voice of an angel. A big black man played the
saxophone
and a couple danced brilliantly. We treated ourselves to a bottle
of
wine - again Spanish and felt like royalty. Got soaked walking
home
in the rain until a taxi picked us up - I sat in the back of his van on
a
deck chair.

photo 60: Vinales.

photo 61: Vinales.

photo 62: Vinales.

photo 63: Hotel Nacional.

photo 64: Hotel Nacional.
Day 20: Havana (21km) - map
Thursday 8 January, 'Christ and the Castillos, Casablanca and Colmar'
ride (
Lonely Planet p106).
A last cycle ride - catching a ferry to see East Havana - 23Km.
We
cycled
up to see the giant Christ figure - built just prior to the revolution
by
Baptisto's wife in 1958. Saw a memorial to Ernest Hemingway -
where
he used to keep his boat. Plus a couple of forts to defend the
city.
Much quieter this side of Havana. Very relieved to find
some
cardboard waiting for us that Marta had found for us. Found
another
box ourselves so Gary could then get to work making a couple of boxes.
Out
for dinner at a Spanish restaurant. Enjoyed a daiquiri - wished I
had
discovered them earlier.

photo 65: Jesus statue in Casablanca, just above the ferry
dock.

photo 66: Torrean de Cojimar.

photo 67: Hemingway bust opposite the Torrean de
Cojimar.

photo 68: Carrie & Gary at the Castillo de
Tres Sntos Reyes del Morro.

photo 69: Another aged car in need of a roadside repair,
Malecon, Havana.
Day 20: Havana - map
Friday 9 January, last day in Cuba, flight left at 22:10.
Our main task was to find some more packing tape to complete the bike
boxes.
Sent round four different shops but all to no avail.
Finally
a security man stole a roll from the post office and sold it to us for
5$-
some security! Visited the art gallery - getting the wrong one at
first
containing non Cuban art. The right gallery was packed with
excellent
pictures and well presented - more like a European gallery. Took
a
bici taxi back to old Havana - which was hair raising - lurching over
holes
in the ground and racing round corners with little space to spare.
Looked
round the last few tourist sights like the Plaza D'Armas. Hoped
to
go up the tower of the San Francisco - but it was closed despite its
doors
being open and with staff at their places. A final beer in the
Plaza
Vieja. A taxi to the airport for $30.

photo 70: View from Casa Particular Balcony across to the
Santa Clara Monastery.

photo 71: La Habana Vieja street scene.

photo 72: Catherdral, La Habana Vieja.

photo 73: Plaza D'Armas, La Habana Vieja
photo 74: Plaza D'Armas, La Habana Vieja

photo 75: from O'Reilly's bar, O'Reilly, La Habana Vieja

photo 76: from O'Reilly's bar, O'Reilly, La Habana Vieja

photo 77: from O'Reilly's bar, O'Reilly, La Habana Vieja

photo 78: from O'Reilly's bar, O'Reilly, La Habana Vieja

photo 79: La Habana Vieja

photo 80: La Habana Vieja.

photo 81: La Habana Vieja.
Day 21: Home
Saturday 10 January, arrive at Gatwick 12:10.