Rides:
Holguin to Bayamo 1

El Salton Challenge 2
La Farola 3
The Sierra Maestra 4
Bayamo Short Route 1

Saturday	20	December	Day	01	14:00 Gatwick to Holguin 19:35
Sunday	21	December	Day	02	Rest Day: Around Holguin
Monday	22	December	Day	03	Day 1: Holguin  to Bayamo (76km)
Tuesday	23	December	Day	04	Day 1: Bayamo (to Santiago de Cuba 149km LPp264) El Santon (68km)
Wednesday	24	December	Day	05	Day 2:  El Santon to Santiago de Cuba (81km)
Thursday	25	December	Day	06	Rest Day: Christmas Day - Santiago de Cuba
Friday	26	December	Day	07	Coach (Viazul) to Barocoa 6hrs
Saturday	27	December	Day	08	Day 1: Baracoa  (to Santiago de Cuba LPp215 243km) to Playa Yacabo (77km)
Sunday	28	December	Day	09	Day 2: Playa Yacabo to Guantanamo (76km)
Monday	29	December	Day	10	Day 3: Guantanamo to Santiago de Cuba (89km)
Tuesday	30	December	Day	11	Rest Day: Santiago de Cuba - Fort
Wednesday	31	December	Day	12	Day 1: Santiago de Cuba (to Manzanillo 337km LPp249) to Tabacal (70km)
Thursday	1	January	Day	13	Day 2: Tabacal to La Mula (45km)
Friday	2	January	Day	14	Day 3: La Mula to Villa Punta de Piedra (62km)
Saturday	3	January	Day	15	Day 4: Villa Punta de Piedra to Manzanillo (90km)
Sunday	4	January	Day	16	Day 1: Manzanillo (to Bayamo LPp262 67km)
Monday	5	January	Day	17	Bayamo – Taxi to Havanna 14 hours $75 each
Tuesday	6	January	Day	18	Havana city ride
Wednesday	7	January	Day	19	Vinales - Pinar del Rio
Thursday	8	January	Day	20
Friday	9	January	Day	21	22:10 Havanna
Saturday	10	January	Day	22	to Gatwick 12:10

Day 4: Bayamo to El Santon (68km) -map

Tuesday 23 December, day 1 of the 149km 2 day 'El Santon Challenge' route from Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba (Lonely Planet p264)

70km I woke feeling a bit sick - especially when I remembered last night's meal.  Not good when today was the hardest day of cycling.  We set off and the sun was soon beating down onto our faces.  This ride was hard because we had lots of up hill and the road surface deteriorated, as we got higher into the mountains. I was so relieved to get to El Santon.  However felt terrible and basically slept all evening with a short break for supper.  A bit of heat stroke I think.  The ride itself wasn't too bad - but the  heat made it really hard.  Saw a huge dead pig being driven round in the back of a lorry.  Plus a dead body being carried on a stretcher.  People everywhere despite being supposedly in the middle of nowhere.  Schools with children looking very smart in uniforms (always the same colours).  Saw a special sports school with children running races barefoot.  The hotel is right at the end of the road - like an oasis after our long ride by a waterfall surrounded by trees.  More poor food - greasy chicken and rice.  Even the biscuits and sweets we had bought were past their sell by date and not quite nice.

Day 5: El Santon to Santiago de Cuba (81km) -map

Wednesday 24 December, day 2 of the 149km 2 day 'El Santon Challenge' route from Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba (Lonely Planet p264)

Hotel Las Americas - $67 per night.  Disappointingly the pool is broken - but at least the shower works properly unlike the last two hotels.  Now very sunburnt with heat rash on my legs.  But otherwise both feeling fine.  Everywhere is very tidy - no litter or litter bins.  The houses although shabby are well kept with neat cactus hedges.  Really enjoyable riding with ups and downs and beautiful views of wooded hills.  Met a Swiss couple of cyclists - our first westerner cyclists.  Decided to stay in this hotel so we could get some help booking the bus for tomorrow.  Great long down hill ride into Santiago.  The city comes as a shock - all the noise and traffic.  Hard to imagine cycling at a hotter time of year.  Looking forward to a nice meal tonight of pizza at the posh hotel over the road - Hotel Santiago.

Day 6: Santiago de Cuba -map

Thursday 25 December, rest day and Christmas day.

Strange Cuba has a dollar economy and strange to be watching US TV in the hotel when they're such enemies.  Got our washing done for us for $10. Walked into the centre of town after booking our bus tickets through the hotel.  Seems very busy - not like Christmas day.  Coffee at the main hotel - Casa Granda - with a brilliant band playing.  Enjoyed looking at all the buildings and people watching. They seem a little more smartly dressed here.  Hoped to go to the Art Gallery - but despite being open and fully staffed it was closed.  Went to the Casa de la Trova to hear some more music and had a beer.  Listened to a woman with an amazing voice sitting on a cool patio with only around ten other people and a mixture of Cubans and tourists.  Horrible spaghetti and pizza at the Casa Granda with very slow service- but great location overlooking the square.

Day 7: Santiago de Cuba to Baracoa -map

Friday 26 December, coach (Viazul) to Baracoa (6hrs).

Caught the bus at 7.30am.  3$ booking fee. $37 for the coach.  Plus $10 for the bikes - although the hotel had told us it would cost only $30 in total.  Gary loaded the bikes himself and locked them inside.  Strange to travel by bus in 6 hours the journey it will then take us three days to cycle back.  The approach to Guantanamo signalled by the sight of soldiers standing in a field wearing green leaves as camouflage.  In Baracoa the first casa was full - but she took us to a friend - Natasha - a young woman with husband and small child.  The house is very small - so it is hard to know where the family sleep - perhaps on the roof.  It is very simple and clean.  She cooked a delicious meal of fish.  The room cost $20 and dinner and breakfast an additional $17.  Walked up to the Hotel Castillio overlooking the town for lunch - with a very tempting looking pool.  Visited the Casa de Trova to hear a band.  I had a go at dancing much to Gary's amusement.

Day 8: Baracoa to Playa Yacabo (77km) -map

Saturday 27 December, day 1 of the 243km 3 day 'La Farola' route from Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba (Lonely Planet p249)

80km.  Started out after a great breakfast of tortilla, bread and honey.  Big climb over La Farolla - but in the pouring rain, which kept us cool, although meant less of a view.  Met an Exodus tour group from the UK and heard about their great hotels.  One lad gave us his remaining energy bars.  We needed these later when we were unable to buy anything for lunch. On arrival - hit a difficulty getting booked into the campismo.  The warden managed to find someone who spoke English to explain to us that he didn't want to rent us a room without a sheet or towel.  He would like us to cycle back to the last village to stay in one of his friend's houses. We weren't cycling an extra 20km and so accepted the room without a sheet and it resembled a concrete garage.  It had a wooden frame bed with some foam for a mattress.  Spanish sounding disco music blared out uncomfortably loudly - despite there being not many people around - just bored looking teenagers.  Had a wonderful swim in the sea - crystal clear water.  We sat and watched the Cuban children playing on the beach.  Supper was with all the other Cubans - very greasy chicken and rice with some mysterious fried leaves. Nothing we could buy to drink and we didn't dare drink the yellow cordial presented to us as part of the meal.  Back in the garage we greedily drank two small cartons of mango juice we had bought in Baracoa.  Thankfully the ear-spliting music stopped around 11pm.

Day 9: Playa Yacabo to Guantanamo (76km) -map

Sunday 28 December, day 2 of the 243km 3 day 'La Farola' route from Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba (Lonely Planet p249)

87km. The music started up again at 8am.  Breakfast of bread and spam - more yellow cordial to resist.  Fantasising about coffee.  Arrived at a dollar shop just before opening time to buy water and biscuit supplies.  An old lady asked us for our plastic bottles once we had emptied them.  The ride was easy and uneventful following the coast and then inland to Guantanamo.  The hotel took some finding - outside the town.  I swam in the cold pool surrounded by teenagers and more ear-splitting disco music. Returned for a cold shower.  Had supper with an Australian couple, working in Canada and their 3 year old son - great conversation.  The usual food - but good value for 10$.

Day 10: Guantanamo to Santiago de Cuba  (89km) -map

Monday 29 December, day 3 of the 243km 3 day 'La Farola' route from Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba (Lonely Planet p249)

Long wait for breakfast this morning and then they charged us $13 - perhaps making up for the cheap dinner.  Long ride but felt easy with lots of down hill and great views of the mountains.  Tiring time back in Santiago trying to find a Casa Particular - but all seemed to be full.  Ended up back at Los Americas.  Taxi into town - lunch at the Casa Granda - later followed by mojitas on the roof garden to watch the sun go down.  Managed to get to the art gallery - Emilio Bacardi Moreau - very poorly presented in a dingy gallery but a few good paintings especially by Martinez Martos and Victor Manuel Garcia.  Treated ourselves to a huge pizza at Pizza Nova at Hotel Santiago.

Day 11: Santiago de Cuba  (26km) -map

Tuesday 30 December, Santiago de Cuba, Castillo del Morro Circuit (Lonely Planet p229)

Changed some money at the hotel and tried without success to book the accommodation for the rest of our trip.  A rest day but we still managed to cycle a fair distance to El Castillo del Morro.   An interesting ride to get there through the port and past the memorial to Frank Pais (a hero of the revolution) before exploring the castle we ate a three course lunch overlooking the ocean for $30.  The fortress was spectacular with great views out to sea. Came back to the hotel and relaxed watching an American film on TV followed by another pizza - stocking up for the bad food ahead.

Day 12: Santiago de Cuba to Tabacal  (70km) -map

Wednesday 31 December, day 1 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra' route from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (Lonely Planet p249)

Enjoyable ride along the coast - with mountain views to our right.  A shipwreck in the sea - its cannons still visible- sunk by the Americans in 1898.  Able to get a room at a small hotel- Motel Guama in Tabacal for $15- with a balcony and wonderful view of the turquoise water.  Able to get lunch - but unfortunately the same as dinner - chicken, rice/beans and friend banana.  Relaxed on the balcony for the afternoon enjoying the view.  They brought our supper up to our room at 6.30pm- we aren't sure why.  Perhaps a way of making money themselves or perhaps they just wanted to close up to enjoy the new year.  So we ate it in the dark on the balcony on a chest of drawers as the mosquitos started to bite our ankles.  So by 7pm we had retreated to our squalid room.  We went down to see if anything was going on in the bar- but it was deserted save for the drunk bar man.   After a cuba libra we were in bed by 8.30pm- what a new year's eve!

Day 13: Tabacal to La Mula (45km) - map

Thursday 1 January 2004, day 2 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra' route from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (Lonely Planet p249)

A surprisingly good breakfast of savoury fried bananas and normal sweet bananas and mugs of yoghurt plus some horrid coffee.  Shortest day cycling yet - arriving mid morning.  The route followed the coast so close to the sea the waves wet the road on occasion.  Arrived at a campismo and chatted to some cyclists from the Czech Republic.  Swam in the sea - although very rocky.  Simple room for $10 within sight and sound of the waves.  Enjoyed the evening - despite the usual food - chatting to the cyclists and also three women from London.  The room lost its charm somewhat to find a cockroach on the floor and a large geko on the toilet cistern plus mosquito's for Gary to kill one by one during the night.

Day 14: La Mula to Villa Punta de Piedra (62km) - map

Friday 2 January 2004, day 3 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra' route from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (Lonely Planet p249)

Gave up on breakfast when no-one had turned up by 8am.  Had to do the ride on biscuits and the remaining power bar. Fantastic ride- with wonderful views of crashing waves.  Stayed at Villa de Piedra - 20$ for the room.  Again had an identical lunch and dinner of fried chicken and rice/beans. But - with the pleasant addition of a salad.  Swam in the sea but a bit shallow and weedy.  The resort doesn't seem designed for people to enjoy the sea - no seats, no views from the restaurant, no proper beach.  Our room- whilst clean - like a cell with no windows at eye level.  We have seen lots of sexual tourists along the way. Middle aged or old unattractive Western men with young Cuban women.

Day 15: Villa Punta de Piedra to Manzanillo (90km) - map

Saturday 3 January 2004, day 4 of the 337km 4 day 'Sierra Maestra' route from Santiago de Cuba to Manzanillo (Lonely Planet p249)

A long hard day's cycle - not much to look at and the wind in our faces.  However it has been hotter. Met the English girls again at the hotel and they gave us bananas and flapjacks - we must look hungry!  The Hotel Guacanayabo is $22 a night.  Unusually friendly staff who speak a little English.  They told us the buses out of Bayama to Havana are fully booked.  Enjoyed relaxing on the balcony - the usual full blast disco music from the pool beneath us.

Day 16: Manzanillo to Bayamo (67km) - map

Sunday 4 January 2004, 1 day short route to Bayamo (Lonely Planet p262)

Really hard cycling - because of the wind.  Also boring - but sustained by the flapjack gift.  Cycled to the bus station in Bayamo - the buses are indeed all full - until 8 Jan.  Tried the airport - but no flights until Tuesday.  Tried to hitch a lift to Holguin but worried we would get dropped off in the middle of nowhere with no time to get to the airport before dark.  Decided to wait at the bus station in case of cancellation.  However met up with a German couple of cyclists in the same position.  They spoke Spanish and negotiated a car to drive us and our bikes to Havana for $300.  The drivers took us to a Casa - where we could have a shower and have a meal, plus some beers and some dark rum.  The cars arrived - clapped out ladas.  They disappeared to find roof racks.  Finally left Bayamo at 10.30pm wondering if we would ever get there.

Day 17: Bayamo to Havana - map

Monday 5 January, Bayamo to Havana by Taxi in 14 hours for $75 each!

They told us the journey would take 7 hours - it took around 15 hours with lots of stops for the engines to cool down and the police stopping them (fining them for transporting tourists illegally).  The drivers shouted to each other between cars, smoking cigars and fiddled with the engine whilst driving along.  Another motorist wanted to know the time - only Gary seemed to have a watch.  The road was quiet - lined with people trying to hitch holding money out in the hope of a lift.  They dropped us 17km outside the city and we cycled in to find somewhere to stay.  Managed to find a casa for $30 plus $3 each for breakfast after looking at a few that just seemed too seedy.  We stayed with two elderly sisters - their niece doing the cooking and thankfully speaking English.  Our room has windows on three sides.  Havana feels like a different world.  The streets are so noisy from early in the morning - people just going about their business. I guess it is because everyone is on top of one another.  A choice of restaurants - selected a Lebanese restaurant with the Germans and shared a bottle of Spanish wine.

Day 18: Havana (18km) - map

Tuesday 6 January, the 'Havana Circuit' ride (Lonely Planet p104)

Wonderful to have fruit for breakfast and reasonable coffee.  Enjoyed conversation with a Swiss couple also at the Casa.  Enjoyed exploring Havana by bike - along the sea front.  Called in at the airline office to ask about bike boxes.  They directed us to an office outside town. Lunch at the wonderful National Hotel overlooking the ocean- where film stars usually stay when in Havana.  The airline office was typically unhelpful - we must box our bikes but they can't help us with any cardboard.  Continued our bike tour - to admire the Che metal sculpture in the Place de la Revolution.  Marta at the Casa says she will try and find us some cardboard.  Expensive dinner sitting outside with a resident salsa band - but no credit cards accepted.  Enjoyable fish - but spoilt by tinned vegetables.  This place feels so different from rest of Cuba - much more geared for tourism.   However we still overheard an English couple complaining about the food and wine - we thought they can't have experienced outside Havana.  Enjoyed walking through the streets of old  Havana to get back to our Casa.  

Day 19: Vinales - map

Wednesday 7 January, day trip to Vinales and Pinar del Rio.

Took an organised coach trip here for $48 each - picking us up from a nearby hotel.  Chatted to the other members of the tour group.  Inspired by a British woman who spoke good Spanish to do an intensive Spanish course in Seville or Grenada.  Great view of Vinales and visiting a tobacco factory were highlights of the day.  Also visited some caves and the usual lunch with a bored looking salsa band playing the usual tunes.  Came back to Havana via the Embassy houses in Miramar.   Dropped off at the National Hotel for dinner and concert for $40.  A great treat to see the last remaining member of the Buenevista Social Club and another old man with white hair and the voice of an angel. A big black man played the saxophone and a couple danced brilliantly.  We treated ourselves to a bottle of wine - again Spanish and felt like royalty.  Got soaked walking home in the rain until a taxi picked us up - I sat in the back of his van on a deck chair.

Day 20: Havana (21km) - map

Thursday 8 January, 'Christ and the Castillos, Casablanca and Colmar' ride (Lonely Planet p106).

A last cycle ride - catching a ferry to see East Havana - 23Km.  We cycled up to see the giant Christ figure - built just prior to the revolution by Baptisto's wife in 1958.  Saw a memorial to Ernest Hemingway - where he used to keep his boat.  Plus a couple of forts to defend the city.  Much quieter this side of Havana.  Very relieved to find some cardboard waiting for us that Marta had found for us.  Found another box ourselves so Gary could then get to work making a couple of boxes.  Out for dinner at a Spanish restaurant.  Enjoyed a daiquiri - wished I had discovered them earlier.

Day 20: Havana - map

Friday 9 January, last day in Cuba, flight left at 22:10.

Our main task was to find some more packing tape to complete the bike boxes.  Sent round four different shops but all to no avail.  Finally a security man stole a roll from the post office and sold it to us for 5$- some security!  Visited the art gallery - getting the wrong one at first containing non Cuban art.  The right gallery was packed with excellent pictures and well presented - more like a European gallery.  Took a bici taxi back to old Havana - which was hair raising - lurching over holes in the ground and racing round corners with little space to spare.  Looked round the last few tourist sights like the Plaza D'Armas.  Hoped to go up the tower of the San Francisco - but it was closed despite its doors being open and with staff at their places.  A final beer in the Plaza Vieja.   A taxi to the airport for $30.

Day 21: Home

Saturday 10 January, arrive at Gatwick 12:10.

Cycling & Cycling Holidays

http://www.historical-cycling.com/cuba.html

http://www.cuba.at.tt/

http://pages.globetrotter.net/cyclo/cuba_a.htm

http://www.bicyclingcuba.com/map.html

Exodus Holiday
http://www.exodustravels.co.uk/cgi-bin/www.exodustravels.co.uk/search_holidays.pl?action=show&pagetoview=mah&log=MAH
http://www.exodustravels.co.uk/cgi-bin/www.exodustravels.co.uk/search_holidays.pl?action=show&pagetoview=mac&log=MAC

Bicycle Touring in Cuba http://www3.adnc.com/~blogan/cuba.html
Cuba Trip Report http://www.geocities.com/thetropics/shores/5902/janebike.htm
¡Viva Cuba! - an 1800 km bike trip in the Caribbean. http://www.cyberbub.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/steve/cuba.htm
BICYCLING CUBA http://www.geocities.com/vedadohabana/bicycling_cuba.html
Cuba's Bicycle Policy http://www.ibike.org/economics/cubapolicy.htm

http://www.bicyclinglife.com/NewsAndViews/cuba.htm
http://www.kevin-foster.com/cuba.htm (Good - look at the bike and what is he wearing!)

Colin and Fiona's Cycling Tours - Eastern Cuba - arrange cycle tours for the CTC Cycling Holidays & Tours Ltd http://www.candflangdon.co.uk/tours/current/cubamarch.htm

Packing your bike

http://www.ibike.org/flying.htm
http://www.cyclingadventure.com/ica/packbike.htm
http://www.exodus.co.uk/factsheets/pdf/mbx02.pdf

Books:

Cycling Cuba (2002) 1st Edition, Lonely Planet, ISBN 1-86450-249-5, £13.99.
Bicycling Cuba - 50 Days of Detailed Ride Routes from Havana to El Oriente
Author: Smith, Wally;Smith, Barbara
Exploring Cuba on two wheels is one of the best ways to see the country. Detailed routes from Havana and the best regions of Cuba are described. Information on accommodation, safety considerations, equipment and accessories is included.
ISBN:0881505536, paperback, Price: £ 16.00.
Publisher: W.W. Norton & Company Ltd, Woodstock – USA, Publication date:2002-11-16

Maps

Excellent site for most of the maps used on this site: http://www.cubamapa.com/

http://www.webhavana.com/CubaMaps/index.php

Two more maps here: Map 1: Cuba Political, Map 2: Cuba Relief.

(Try Stanfords 020 7836 1321):
Reise Know-How, 2001, ISBN: 3831770352

Freytag & Berndt £8.95
Scale: 1:1,250,000
Catalogue Number:      15859
Format:     Folded Map
Size:     69x98cm
ISBN:     3850842665

Best: Directico Touristico, bound atlas - cannot purchase in the UK.

Accomodation:

Casa Particulars http://users.pandora.be/casaparticular/

Holguin:
Hotel El Bosque (0053) 24 481012

Bayamo:
Hotel Royalton (0053) 23 432224