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John O'Groats to Lands End - 977 miles (July 2001)

by Brian Thompson & Gary Hill


CONTENTS

bullet Cyclists

bullet Charities

bullet Thurs 19/07/01 Travel from Northampton to John O'Groats

bullet Day 1 Fri 20/07/01 John O’Groats to Bonar Bridge

bullet Day 2 Sat 21/07/01 Bonar Bridge to Fort William

bullet Day 3 Sun 22/07/01 Fort William to Dumbarton

bullet Day 4 Mon 23/07/01 Dumbarton to Carlisle

bullet Day 5 Tues 24/07/01 Carlisle to Carnforth

bullet Day 6 Wed 25/07/01 Carnforth to Whitchurch

bullet Day 7 Thurs 26/07/01 Whitchurch to Ross on Wye

bullet Day 8 Fri 27/07/01 Ross on Wye to Williton

bullet Day 9 Sat 28/07/01 Williton to Wadebridge

bullet Day 10 Sun 29/07/01 Wadebridge to Lands End

bullet Tools and Spares

bullet Equipment

bullet Conclusions


Cyclists

Gary Hill aged 38 from Northampton
Simon Reardon aged 26 from Earls Barton
Dale Grose aged 34 from Earls Barton
Brian Thompson aged 54 from Earls Barton

Charities

Multiple Sclerosis – Gary and Brian (Raised £1250)
Headway – a local head injuries support group – Simon
Cynthia Spencer Hospice – a local hospice for cancer patients - Dale


Thurs 19/07/01 Travel from Northampton to John O'Groats

The weather forecast for the start of the journey was to say the least not very promising, with one of the daily papers predicting arctic conditions. However, undeterred we left Earls Barton at about 11.00am in a transit van with our bikes in boxes we had scrounged from local cycle shops. We arrived at Luton airport with plenty of time to spare, had a drink or two and then boarded our Easy Jet flight to Inverness. As our bikes were boxed up we had to wait at Inverness Airport at the collection point for awkward shaped baggage. As we stood by a doorway to collect the parcels we met a lady also waiting for unusual baggage, but in her case it was for a fragile parcel. As we watched, the baggage handler picked up her bag, looked at the clearly marked fragile label, and then threw it to the ground. The lady was justifiably livid. When our bikes came through one of the boxes was damaged, we gave it a cursory inspection and the damage looked as though someone had torn open parts of the box looking for valuables. However we located our taxi driver and then loaded our bikes into the people carrier for the journey to John O'Groats, hoping that there was no damage to Simon's bike. The journey was interesting with the driver, Brian, acting as a travel courier and telling us about the history and local information.

When we arrived at The B & B we unpacked the bikes only to find out that Simon's bike in the damaged box was far from perfect. The cycle computer was missing and the front forks badly bent. Luckily the B & B had a large workshop where we located a 5ft length of scaffold pole and Dale and I straightened the forks while the others looked on in horror expecting the forks to break at any moment. Eventually we got all the bikes together and cycled along virtually deserted roads into John O'Groats for the customary pictures, a tee shirt and a couple of pints. When we asked the locals what time it gets dark we were told that at this time of the year it doesn't and they have virtually 24 hours daylight. This was only partially true and it did get darkish about 11.00pm, maybe because it was overcast, but it did mean we required lights on the ride back. Back to the B & B and bed ready for an early start next morning.


Day 1 Fri 20/07/01 John O’Groats to Bonar Bridge

Left Mrs Wilkins B & B at 8.15 a.m. heading towards Thurso on the A836 with the wind blowing from the North giving a cross wind. First part of the ride was fairly flat open heath land. Stopped at Thurso for a quick drink and a bite to eat. So far so good – only another 900 miles or so to go.

We the travelled through Melvich and Strathy to Bettyhill. This section included four fairly stiff climbs – a taste of things to come. At Berryhill we turned inland and had the luxury of a tailwind for the rest of the day. This was to be the first and last tailwind of the trip – maybe that is why sensible people travel from Lands End to John O'Groats. We joined the B873 at Tongue where the road followed the River Naver. This proved to be a relatively fat section although there were lots of cattle grids to negotiate. In fact I have a vivid impression of Gary approaching one of these on a downhill stretch at around about 40mph and jumping his bike over the 2 metre grid and landing safely – not something I would have tried, but then I don't have his mountain bike skills.

In Bettyhill we stopped for our vital refreshments and met a couple of draymen (from Hunter & Co) who kindly offered us a donation for one of our charities (MS).

Dales chainset had broken. Having an Ultegra chainset which has splines we discovered that the centre nut had come loose and the chainring had partially come off the splines. There was evidence of some damage but between us with some trepidation we decided to have a go at repairing it. We borrowed an allen key off the barman at the Bonar Bridge Hotel and re-attached the chainring. It seemed o.k. so we sent Simon off to test it in top gear up a steep hill. Still seems o.k., but only time will tell. The barman kindly let Dale keep the allen key so that we could ensure the securing bolt did not come loose again.

Bonar Bridge Hotel (01863) 766685. Carol/Paul/Sharon.
2 twin rooms @ £20 pppn incl b&b
Break at Thurso, Lunch at Berryhill. Excellent views down Strath Naver (B873).

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total



110
 110
Arrived 7.15pm

Day 2 Sat 21/07/01 Bonar Bridge to Fort William


Steep climb over to Alness.

Left Bonar Bridge at around 8.30 a.m. only to encounter a steep climb to 220 m from more or less sea level. We then descended to Loch Ness and had a short stop at a garage just outside the city where we had four mugs of much appreciated hot chocolate. We then continued on to the A9 and once again encountered a gruelling climb along a busy road to 235m.

We then travelled along the south of Loch Ness after being warned by the locals that travelling on the A82 would probably result in our premature deaths from tourists searching the Loch for Nessie. We stopped for lunch at Dores alongside east bank of Loch Ness. We re-tightened Dales chainring securing nut but apart from that his bike is fine.

After lunch we followed the B862 to the end of Loch Ness where we met an horrendous climb to 393m, however the view was spectacular even if the legs were feeling a bit weary. We then descended to Fort Augustus for a mid afternoon break in a pub. We also needed to book accommodation for that evening in Fort William. Gary phoned Tourist Information while the rest of us had a couple of pints. However during this break the rain started and was to continue for the last 35 miles to Fort William. After successfully arranging accommodation we left Fort Augustus on the A82 and followed Loch Lochie to Fort William. We arrived drenched and having only one change of clothes, changed into dryish wear and prepared to go out. In the mean time we hung up our sodden cycling wear over a warm radiator in the hope they might dry. We hailed a taxi and went into town where Gary being an ardent mountain climber knew the best bars to frequent, and went to the aptly named Nevis Bar. Three of us went for the local favourite of Haggis, Neaps and Tattys whilst Simon went for a good old pizza. The haggis was excellent but having had soup for starters I was really struggling to finish off the generous portions.

After the meal we went downstairs for a drink. It was now approaching 11.00 p.m. and we were expecting last orders. 11.00 came and went and the bar was filling at an alarming rate. We then discovered that the licensing laws in Scotland aren't quite as antiquated is those in England and the bars don't close until some time after midnight. We then got a taxi and returned to our rooms only to find the radiators were cold and our clothes still as wet as when we left them.

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total



106
 216
Arrived 8.00pm


Day 3 Sun 22/07/01 Fort William to Dumbarton

09:10, 10:50, 15:00, 18:55 Ferry (01436 672642)

Woke up to a grey morning with drizzle in the air only to discover that our cycling clothes were virtually as wet as the night before. Worse still there had been no covered area for our bikes and our saddles were soaked. Struggling into the wet gear we had breakfast and set off feeling rather damp following Loch Eil on the A82 with the towering peak of Ben Nevis just visible to the left. We cycled along the Pass of Glencoe with a 4 mile climb to about 348m in intermittent rain. The views of Glen Coe were spectacular but the terrain was fairly demanding. After lunch the weather brightened up and the terrain became easier as we cycled alongside the river Fallock, which we concluded was a salmon fishing river, an area of resounding beauty with picturesque landscapes. The afternoon was one of the most pleasant rides of the holiday alongside the river and then on to Loch Lomond. With drying clothes and the flatter terrain we all started to feel really good and the last 20 miles into Dumbarton were the quickest of the journey so far. We arrived at the B & B at around 7.00pm. As we were in different B & B's we had arrange to meet in a pub midway between the two. The bar looked a bit foreboding and once inside the décor was a bit basic and the barman was covered in tattoos, had a 4 inch scar on his neck and looked as though he had been recruited to 'clean the pub up'. However we had a pleasant chat with one of the locals and headed off for a bite to eat.

While Dale and Simon lived it up in one B & B with en suite, Gary and I stayed in a B & B along a quiet cul de sac. Once booked in it took quite a lot of persuasion to get the landlady to find a safe place for our bikes. Later we found out that the next door neighbour had 'torched ' our hosts car over some long standing disagreement – and she said our bikes would be safe outside, Huh!
Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total



94
 310


Day 4 Mon 23/07/01 Dumbarton to Carlisle


We left Dumbarton at 8.30 and headed into Glasgow City centre. This part of the journey was in heavy traffic with frequent stops at traffic lights and roundabouts. This early part of the journey was frustrating as the constant starting and stopping was not only physically demanding but was also keeping our average speed low. We carried on through Hamilton and then on to the B7078. At last we were on the open roads. This was a really quiet road which follow the M74. If we thought that our problems were over and that we could pick up some lost time we were sadly mistaken. Once out of the confines of the City it was evident that the southerly wind was strong, unrelenting and in our faces. We struggled for ages averaging less than 10mph and morale was sinking to an all time low. We stopped for lunch at a pub and had to wait ages for a 'fast food' meal – still more time lost. Emerging after lunch was no better with the wind as unrelenting as ever. However as the B7078 joined the A702 at Abington the open terrain gave way to wooded areas on both sides of the road. The trees acted as a natural wind break and all of a sudden things changed and we were able to cycle at 16 or 17 mph. We then joined the B7076 at Johnstonebridge and down past Lockerbie. Soon after Lockerbie my wife, Rosie, who was to act as support vehicle for the rest of the journey to Lands End phoned to say she was in Carlisle. She arranged accommodation for us and then came to meet us. As she arrived I had just got the first puncture of the trip so far. Once repaired we offloaded our saddle bags and handlebar panniers and set off for Gretna Green (and our last alcoholic refreshment in Scotland). It was a relief to finish the journey to Carlisle with a lighter load.

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total
8.45
 13
 41
 115
 425

A701 Moffat, B7076 Lockerbie, Ecclefechan Gretna Green, A74 Carlisle.

Arrived 8.30pm

Day 5 Tues 24/07/01 Carlisle to Carnforth

This morning breakfast was the smallest so far – is this an indication we are in England? Simons freewheel which had been sticking yesterday was in need of repair. We therefore cycled into Carlisle to wait for a bike shop to open. No luck here – the first shop didn't have a mechanic and didn't have the spare part required. The shop next door didn't open until 10.00 a.m! We therefore decided to carry on and on Gary's advice decided we would try a bikeshop he knew of in Ambleside. Leaving a wet and drizzly Carlisle at about 9.15 a.m. we cycled out along the B5299 through Dalston then climbed to Sebergham. The countryside was now becoming picturesque with open roads and towering hills all around. We passed through Mungrisdale and then turned left on to the A66 for a mile or so before turning right on to the A5091 through Thornythwaite and on to Ullswater. We followed Ullswater to Glenridding where we had a brief stop. Gary and I searched out shops selling energy bars while the two other younger members of the group went for the 'Scrumpy Jack' . Leaving Glenridding Gary had a slight problem with his rear wheel which was quickly fixed before carrying on, only to be confronted by the awesome sight of the Kirkstone Pass towering in front of us. It was soon after this that I wished I had a triple front chainset with about 25 teeth on the smaller. Anyway, I didn't, so standing up in the pedals I struggled upwards.

I eventually made it to the top, but I have to admit to stopping three times to gasp for much needed oxygen. However Gary and Simon did make it without a stop (obviously the younger legs!). The descent into Ambleside was a little hairy in places but we all made it safe and sound although poor old Simon was suffering with his freewheel acting more like a 7 speed fixed wheel. Now to test out the bike shops. My wife Rosie met us with most of the tools required to remove the offending freewheel and freehub – except the chainwhip tool to hold the sprockets while we undid the locknut. The first and largest of the shops (Bike Treks) was no help at all, they wouldn't either lend us a tool or remove the freewheel themselves and only seemed to want to sell us a new rear wheel for £52. So much for charity. The second shop (Ghyllside Cycles?) was a different prospect all together – the mechanic removed the freewheel in about 30 seconds (for free), sold us a new freehub and wished us good luck – a much more charitable chap. We bought some fish and chips and a drink and retired to the support car where we spent an hour or so repairing Simon's bike in what was now blazing sunshine. We didn't get started again until about 3.15 p.m. and so seemed doomed to a short day. Leaving Ambleside on the A591 we had only cycled about 10 minutes when one of Gary's spokes snapped in his rear wheel on the side of the freewheel. It was o.k. because I had remembered to put some spokes of the right size in the support car, but guess what, no chain whip tool to remove the freewheel!! We carried on with Gary's buckled rear wheel and by luck found a Halfords like shop in Windemere where we bought a chain whip tool. The spoke would wait until the evening so we carried on. We joined the A5074 through Winster and then onto the A6. The roads were no becoming flatter and we cycled on the Carnforth where Rosie had found a B & B. Gary and I had become separated from the other two who had apparently taken a detour on to the M6 and used the much relied upon mobile phone to contact them.

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total
6
 13
 38
 77
 502

B5299 Dalston, Sebergham, Hesket Newmarket, Mungrisdale, A66, A5091 Thornythwaite, Glennridding, Patterdale, Ambelside, A5074 Winster, Row, A6 Carnforth.

Arrived 6.30pm

Day 6 Wed 25/07/01 Carnforth to Whitchurch

Didn't take any notes for today.

Stayed at The Greyhound pub in Whitchurch. When we arrived the barman was rushed off his feet with only him serving drinks, food, booking us into our rooms and trying to find a suitable safe place for our bikes. Eventually we put them in the cellar although it was a bit of a struggle. The staff here were really friendly and eager to help and the food was superb in fact one of the best meals of the trip.

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total



100
 602

A6 Lancaster, A588 Cockerham, B5272 Garstang, A6 Preston, B5353 Leyland, B5250 Eccelston, Shevington, B5206 Orell, Billenge, B5207 Ashton in Markfield, A573 Warrington, Northwich, Winsford, Nantwich

Day 7 Thurs 26/07/01 Whitchurch to Ross on Wye

Stayed at Vaga House – Ross-on-Wye. £20pp really helpful, pleasant people. Met them outside the Man of Ross public house.

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total
7.30
 13
97
 699

Whitchurch, B5476 Wem, B5063 Walton, Admaston, Aston, Dryton, Cressage, A458 Much Wenlock, Ludlow, B4361 Ludford, Overton, Luston, Leominster, A49 Hereford, Ross on Wye

Arrived 7.45pm

Day 8 Fri 27/07/01 Ross on Wye to Williton

Left Ross on Wye on theB4234.
Steep 1.5 mile climb to Clearwell in Forest of Dean. Difficult morning although not quite as bad as anticipated. Arrived Chepstow just before lunch and proceeded to cross the Severn bridge. Once over the next few miles were through industrial areas along the A403 around Avonmouth. Then took the B3133 to Congresbury where we had lunch. The weather was hot and sunny. After lunch (a little heavier, one of Gary's spokes broke again) we followed the A38 and then took a quick detour to Burnham on sea where we stopped for refreshments. The final stint of the day was along the A38 and then onto the A39 at Wembdon and then to Watchet. Tried to find accommodation in Watchet but unknown to us it was carnival week, so we moved inland to Williton where the landlady at the Huntsmans Arms was extremely helpful and managed to house 2 of us and phoned round to find accommodation for the other three. Not only did she go out of her way to get us a bed for the night the chef also rustled us up five beautifully prepared steaks an hour after he had stopped serving. It just goes to show, there are friendly and helpful people out there!

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total
8
 14
 45
 115
 814

Ross on Wye B4234 Upper Lydbrook, 02 B4228, Chepstow, Avonmouth, Portishead, Clevendon, Weston Supermare (spoke broke), Congresbury (spoke broke), Berrow, Burnham on Sea, A38 Bridgewater, A39 Watchet.

Arrived 7.30pm

Day 9 Sat 28/07/01 Williton to Wadebridge

For me this was one of the hardest days so far. It was a hot day and the rolling nature of the countryside meant you were either climbing or descending but never on the flat.

We left Williton at about 8.30 on the A39 and then turned left on to the A396 to avoid the 25% climb up Porlock Hill. After about 5 miles we turned right on to the B3224 and the serious climbing started. The first big climb was into Exford and was under the misguided impression that once on top of Exmoor it would be plain sailing. It was far from flat with steep climbs and descents the order of the morning. After advice upon how to miss the steepest climbs from a shop keeper in Challacombe we took to the back roads through Four Ways, Bratton Fleming, Goodleigh and into Barnstaple. With the realisation that we needed to get as far as possible today we decided to follow the A39 in the hope that we could stay in Newquay leaving us around 40 or so miles on Sunday. This proved to be relatively boring with lots of ups and downs and a lot of hot and impatient holiday drivers.

After hours of searching B & B's we eventually found accommodation at Wadebridge as no accommodation to be found at Newquay. One Hotel (Pebbles Hotel) had rooms but wouldn't have us for one night and told Rosie that we would 'just have to keep peddling' – and he didn't offer us any sponsorship for our charities!

Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total
8
 13
 41
 105
 919

A39 Williton, A396 Dunster B3224 Wheddon Cross, Exford, Challacombe, A399 Four Ways, Bratton Flemming, Goodleigh, Barnstaple, A39 Bideford, Bude, Wadebridge


Day 10 Sun 29/07/01 Wadebridge to Lands End


The final day and only about 55 miles to go! We were in high spirits and a mere 55 or 60 miles seemed a doddle after the previous 9 days efforts. However, once back on to the A39 the same pattern as the previous day emerged, namely steep climbs followed by steep descents and a westerly wind although relatively light, always blowing into our faces. We joined the A 30 which is a mixture of dual and single carriageway carrying a lot of traffic. We rode inside the white line which forms a sort of cycle track but this strip is littered with rubbish and negotiating the drains and cat eyes required total concentration. After a few miles on the A30 the inevitable happened, Gary hit a large stone and punctured. After fitting a new innertube we continued through Redruth and on to Penzance. Although it was still undulating the climbs didn't seem as steep as earlier (maybe because the end was in sight), but then the ride had a sting in its tail. The last 10 miles from Penzance to Lands End seemed hillier than the rest of the day and on tired legs was pleased to see the outskirts of Lands End and where we stopped for a well earned pint before crossing the finishing line.

Dale couldn't find a bottle of Champagne to celebrate our achievement so bought a bottle of aptly named 'Cripple Cock' cider instead.
Hours
 Average
 Max. mph
Distance
Total
4
 13.7
 41
 58
 977

A39, A30 Redruth, Penzance, Lands End

Tools and Spares

Spokes
Shimano freewheel remover
10mm allen key
Chain whip tool
Tyre levers
Screwdrivers
4/ 5/ 6mm Y allen key tool
9/10/11 mm Y spanner
Chain
Tyres
Inner tubes
Spoke key
Bottom Bracket remover
Pedal spanner
Socket set
lights

Equipment

We all rode racing cycles of various types:

Brian – Paul Milnes 7005 frame with Shimano 105 chainset with 52/39 teeth. RX100 brakes and rear mechanism, Ultegra STI levers and front mech and 9 speed freewheel with 12/13/14/15/17/19/21/23/25 teeth.

Dale – Paul Milnes 7005 frame with Ultegra chainset with 52/42 teeth. RX100 brakes rear mech and front mech and an 8 speed freewheel with 11/13/15/17/19/22/25/28 teeth.

Simon – Standard Raleigh

Gary – Peugeot Competition 600 (borrowed from a friend!)

We all carried 4 litre handlebar pannier and rear.

Dale and Brian had Altura 4.5 litre seat post post packs on the rear + small stash packs for tools.

Simon and Gary had small rucksacks

Conclusions

Travelling without a backup vehicle would have created a lot of problems booking accommodation and carrying spare clothes, cycle spares and tools.

An extra day would have made the journey through Devon and Cornwall more pleasant.

Was difficult to book accommodation in Devon and Cornwall – could have carried tents in back up vehicle just in case.

We were lucky with the weather – if winds had been strong from South West it would have been difficult to maintain 100 miles a day.

Would use a triple chainring on front